The Oude Kerk (Old Church) represents the physical foundation of Amsterdam’s urban development. Originally a wooden chapel built in the early 13th century, it evolved into a massive stone hall church that witnessed the city’s transition from a small fishing village to a global trade hub. As you walk through its massive doors, you are entering a space where centuries of religious, cultural, and social history converge. The building serves as a silent witness to the Reformation, the Dutch Golden Age, and the modern evolution of the city’s red-light district. Understanding the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is essential for anyone seeking to grasp the architectural and spiritual roots of the Dutch capital.

The Foundation of Amsterdam’s Oldest Building

The history of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) begins around the year 1213. At that time, a small wooden chapel stood on the site, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors. This location was strategic, as it sat near the mouth of the Amstel River where ships arrived. By 1306, the Bishop of Utrecht officially consecrated the stone church that replaced the wooden structure. For centuries, the building was the only parish church in Amsterdam, earning it the simple name of “Old Church” once the New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) was constructed near the Dam Square in the 15th century.

During the Middle Ages, the church served as more than just a place of worship. It was a community hub where merchants met, agreements were signed, and citizens sought refuge during floods. The building was expanded continuously between 1300 and 1500. Side chapels were added by wealthy families and guilds, creating the complex, irregular floor plan that characterizes the site today. These additions were not just for religious purposes but also served as status symbols for the city’s elite. The gradual transformation of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) mirrors the increasing wealth and population of Amsterdam during its formative years.

Tip: The Oude Kerk is located at Oudekerksplein 23, 1012 GX Amsterdam, situated in the heart of the city’s oldest neighborhood.

Gothic Hall Church Architecture and Europe’s Largest Vaults

Architecturally, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is classified as a Gothic hall church. One of its most distinctive features is the wooden barrel vaulting. Constructed from Estonian oak in the 14th century, these vaults are considered the largest of their kind in Europe. The use of wood instead of stone was a practical necessity; the soft, swampy soil of Amsterdam could not support the immense weight of stone vaults. The wood was painted with biblical scenes and decorative motifs, some of which are still partially visible despite the wear of centuries.

The church’s windows are another significant architectural element. While much of the original medieval stained glass was lost over time, the “Mariakapel” (Lady Chapel) contains windows dating back to the 16th century. These windows depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary and are among the few examples of pre-Reformation glass to survive in the Netherlands. The height of the nave and the expansive windows were designed to flood the interior with light, a characteristic of the late Gothic style that sought to create a sense of celestial space. The interplay between the massive pillars and the delicate window traceries provides a clear example of medieval engineering.

Tip: The wooden vaults of the Oude Kerk consist of medieval oak planks that were installed between 1380 and 1390.

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The Impact of the Reformation and the 1566 Iconoclasm

The Oude Kerk (Old Church) underwent a radical transformation during the 16th century. In 1566, the Netherlands was swept by the “Beeldenstorm” or Iconoclasm. Protestant reformers, seeking to strip churches of what they considered idolatrous Catholic imagery, entered the building and destroyed statues, altars, and paintings. This event marked a turning point in the church’s history. When Amsterdam officially joined the Protestant cause during the Alteration of 1578, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) was handed over to the Reformed Church, and its interior was whitewashed to reflect the new, austere theology.

You can still see the scars of this period today. Empty niches where statues once stood and the absence of ornate altars are physical reminders of the religious conflict. Despite the destruction, some elements survived. The misericords—small wooden ledges on the underside of choir stalls—remained intact because they were often decorated with secular or humorous scenes rather than religious icons. These carvings depict proverbs and daily life in the 15th century, providing a rare glimpse into the medieval mindset that escaped the reformers’ hammers. The transition from a Catholic cathedral to a Protestant hall changed the function of the space, focusing attention on the pulpit rather than the high altar.

Oude kerk in Amsterdam’s Red Light district

Oude kerk in Amsterdam’s Red Light district

Burial Grounds and the Legacy of Saskia van Uylenburgh

The floor of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is paved entirely with gravestones. It is estimated that approximately 12,000 people are buried beneath the church, a practice that continued until burials inside churches were banned in 1865. The graves were often reused, leading to the Dutch expression “rijk rekenen op een andermans graf” (counting oneself rich on someone else’s grave). The gravestones themselves are a record of Amsterdam’s social history, featuring the names, dates, and coats of arms of the city’s prominent families, merchants, and naval heroes.

The most famous individual buried here is Saskia van Uylenburgh, the wife of the painter Rembrandt van Rijn. She was buried in the church on June 19, 1642. Her grave, located in the “Weitkoperskapel” (Madder-buyers’ chapel), remains a focal point for visitors. Rembrandt himself, although a resident of Amsterdam, was buried in the Westerkerk because he was impoverished at the end of his life. However, his connection to the Oude Kerk (Old Church) remains strong through Saskia’s memorial and the records of their children’s baptisms held in the city archives. Every year on March 9, a unique event occurs where the sun shines directly onto Saskia’s grave at approximately 8:27 AM, a phenomenon known as the “Saskia-ontbijt” (Saskia breakfast).

Tip: Saskia van Uylenburgh’s grave is identified as number 29 in the floor plan of the church, located in the northern transept.

A lively evening scene in De wallen shows people sitting at cafés and walking along the cobbled street

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Musical Heritage: Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck and the Great Organ

Music has played a central role in the life of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) for centuries. The most notable figure in its musical history is Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck, who served as the church organist for 44 years, from 1577 until his death in 1621. Sweelinck was an internationally renowned composer and teacher, often called the “Orpheus of Amsterdam.” His influence on European keyboard music was profound, and he is buried within the church he served for nearly his entire life.

The church houses several historic organs, the most prominent being the Vater-Müller organ. Built between 1724 and 1726 by Christian Vater and later expanded by Johann Caspar Müller, it is considered one of the finest Baroque organs in the world. The instrument features nearly 4,000 pipes and a richly decorated case that dominates the west end of the nave. The acoustics of the Oude Kerk (Old Church), enhanced by the high wooden vaults, make it a premier venue for organ music. Regular recitals continue the tradition started by Sweelinck, allowing you to hear the same sounds that have echoed through the building for hundreds of years.

Tip: Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck was buried in the Oude Kerk on October 16, 1621, and his memorial stone can be found in the choir area.

Contemporary Art and Modern Use within a Historic Monument

In the 21st century, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) has adopted a dual identity. While it remains a consecrated space with an active Protestant congregation, it also functions as a museum for contemporary art. Since 2012, the church has commissioned international artists to create site-specific installations that engage with the building’s history and architecture. These exhibitions often use light, sound, and modern materials to contrast with the ancient stone and wood of the church. This approach has made the Oude Kerk (Old Church) a unique participant in the global art scene.

The integration of modern art within a medieval monument is not without controversy, but it reflects Amsterdam’s tradition of innovation and reuse. The exhibitions are designed to encourage visitors to look at the historical space in new ways. For instance, some installations have highlighted the acoustic properties of the vaults or the play of light through the stained glass. This modern function ensures that the Oude Kerk (Old Church) remains a living building, evolving with the culture of the city rather than becoming a static relic of the past. It continues to be a site of dialogue between the old and the new, the sacred and the secular.

A view of the Oude kerk from across a canal featuring its intricate architecture and nearby street scene

Visiting Oude Kerk Amsterdam? Key Tips to Know

The Oude Kerk (Old Church) is Amsterdam’s oldest building and a primary example of Dutch Gothic architecture. Located in the historic De Wallen district, it features expansive medieval wooden vaults, significant historical burials including Saskia van Uylenburgh, and a modern function as a contemporary art museum and active church.

Practical Information for Visiting the Site

The Oude Kerk (Old Church) is open to the public throughout the year, though hours may vary during religious services or special events. Because the church is located in the Red Light District, the surrounding area is often busy, but the interior of the church offers a quiet, contemplative atmosphere. Visitors are provided with an audio guide that details the history of the various chapels, the significance of the gravestones, and the stories behind the architectural features. It is a large space, so you should allow at least an hour to explore it thoroughly.

In addition to the main floor, it is sometimes possible to climb the Oude Kerk tower. The tower, which was heightened in 1566, provides an expansive view of the medieval city center. From the top, you can see the layout of the canals and the surrounding historic buildings. Note that the tower is managed separately from the church museum, and access may require a different ticket or guided tour. Whether you are interested in medieval history, Dutch Golden Age art, or contemporary installations, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) provides a comprehensive look at the layers of history that make up the city of Amsterdam.

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the Oude Kerk still a church?

Yes, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is an active place of worship for a Protestant congregation. Services are held on Sunday mornings. During the rest of the week, the building functions as a museum of art and history.

Where is Saskia van Uylenburgh buried?

Saskia, the wife of Rembrandt, is buried in the Oude Kerk (Old Church) in grave number 29. Her grave is located in the northern transept, in an area known as the Weitkoperskapel.

What is the oldest part of the Oude Kerk?

While the original 13th-century wooden structure is gone, the oldest stone parts of the current building date back to the early 14th century, specifically the foundations and parts of the choir that were consecrated in 1306.

Can I take photos inside the Oude Kerk?

Photography is generally allowed for personal use, but flash photography is often prohibited to protect the historic paintings and delicate interior. During contemporary art exhibitions, there may be specific rules regarding photography of the installations.

Why are there so many graves in the floor?

In the past, it was customary for citizens to be buried inside churches to be closer to God. The Oude Kerk (Old Church) served as the city’s main cemetery for centuries until indoor burials were banned in 1865 for public health reasons.

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