What can you see in De Wallen Amsterdam today?

The Oude Kerk: Amsterdam’s Oldest Building

In the center of De Wallen (Red Light District) stands the Oude Kerk (Old Church). This structure is the oldest surviving building in Amsterdam. Originally a wooden chapel, it was rebuilt as a stone gothic basilica over several centuries. The church served as a central meeting place for the city’s residents and was used for both religious services and maritime business. Its floor is composed entirely of gravestones, as it served as a cemetery for prominent citizens, including the wife of the painter Rembrandt van Rijn, Saskia van Uylenburgh.

The presence of the Oude Kerk in the middle of a district known for its secular activities highlights the unique social fabric of Amsterdam. For centuries, the church and the surrounding industry have coexisted within a few meters of each other. The church now functions as a contemporary art space while maintaining its status as a Protestant house of worship. The tower of the church, added in the 16th century, provides a fixed point in the skyline of De Wallen (Red Light District) and houses a famous carillon.

Tip: Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried in the Oude Kerk on June 19, 1642, in grave number 29 under the small organ.

The Development of the Red Light District

The association of De Wallen (Red Light District) with sex work is not a modern phenomenon but is tied to its maritime history. Since the 14th century, the presence of sailors arriving in the port led to the development of guesthouses, taverns, and prostitution. In the 16th century, during the Protestant Reformation, the city authorities attempted to ban the practice, but it continued to operate clandestinely in “speelhuizen” (playhouses).

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the industry became more visible and regulated. The modern “window prostitution” that characterizes De Wallen (Red Light District) today emerged as a way to circumvent laws against brothels while still allowing workers to operate independently. The legalization of brothels in the Netherlands in 2000 further integrated the industry into the formal economy, subjecting it to health, safety, and taxation regulations. This historical continuity makes the area one of the most studied examples of urban social policy in the world.

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Urban Renewal and Project 1012

In recent decades, the City of Amsterdam has implemented significant changes in De Wallen (Red Light District) through “Project 1012,” named after the area’s postal code. The project’s objective was to reduce criminal activity and diversify the neighborhood’s commercial offerings. This resulted in the closure of several hundred prostitution windows and their conversion into art galleries, boutiques, and high-end residential apartments.

The municipal government continues to refine its approach to the district. Recent measures include the “Stay Away” campaign and strict regulations regarding the consumption of alcohol and tobacco in public spaces. There are also ongoing discussions about moving some of the industry to an “Erotic Centre” outside of the city center to alleviate the pressure of “overtourism” on the narrow streets of De Wallen (Red Light District). These policies reflect the city’s attempt to preserve the area as a livable residential neighborhood while maintaining its historical identity.

Cultural Institutions and Education

Beyond its commercial aspects, De Wallen (Red Light District) houses several institutions dedicated to history and education. The Museum of Prostitution (Red Light Secrets) is located in a former canal house and provides a factual overview of the industry from the perspective of the workers. It aims to demystify the profession and provide information on the legal rights and safety of the individuals involved.

Another important resource is the Prostitution Information Centre (PIC), founded by former worker Mariska Majoor. The PIC provides information to visitors, researchers, and students to promote a better understanding of the neighborhood. Additionally, the district is home to “Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder” (Our Lord in the Attic), a well-preserved 17th-century clandestine church. This museum demonstrates the religious tolerance of the Dutch Golden Age, where Catholics worshipped in secret while the city was officially Protestant.

Tip: The Prostitution Information Centre is located at Enge Kerksteeg 3 and was founded in 1994.

Practical Information and Regulations

For visitors to De Wallen (Red Light District), it is essential to be aware of local laws and social norms. Photography of the windows and the workers is strictly prohibited and enforced by local security and social pressure. The streets are monitored by cameras and “hosts” who assist with crowd control and provide information on neighborhood rules.

The area is most accessible on foot. From Amsterdam Central Station, it is a five-minute walk to the entrance of the district at the Zeedijk or the Warmoesstraat. Guided tours are subject to strict regulations; as of 2020, commercial guided tours are no longer allowed to enter the streets with prostitution windows to protect the privacy of workers and residents. Visitors are encouraged to visit during the day to appreciate the medieval architecture or in the evening to see the district’s characteristic lighting.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Sources

• Gemeente Amsterdam. (2023). Aanpak binnenstad: Project 1012 en de Wallen.
• Stadsarchief Amsterdam. (2022). De geschiedenis van de oudste stadswijk.
• Oude Kerk Amsterdam. (2024). Building history and monuments. https://www.oudekerk.nl/
• Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed. (2023). Monumentenregister: Oudezijds Voorburgwal.